Torres del Paine is a paradise of extreme proportions

Torres del Paine National Park in Chile is an incredible region with raw beauty at every turn with ice fields, glacial lakes, unique wildlife, and extreme mountains. We were lucky enough to spend four days here at EcoCamp (for a full review of EcoCamp, read Anne’s post here), and experience a sampling of all the park has to offer.

To get a grasp on Torres del Paine National Park, our guides gave us a driving overview, pointing out the various peaks, available hikes, lakes and animals. The terrain had us spellbound and to add to the magic, fall turned the grasses along the lakes a beautiful mix of autumn colors.

Guancos are one of the few mammals ready to handle the extreme climate of Patagonia and they thrive here in abundance. Perhaps it’s because they know they are a protected species and irresistibly adorable, but they weren’t at all bashful. This one even batted her eyelashes at me.

Run-off from the numerous glaciers that crown Torres del Paine cut through the landscape in snake-like fashion. The three sharp thin peaks jutting out in the distance are the “towers” that give the park their name and the place we would be hiking in days to come.

Day 2 had us on a wild and bumpy boat ride toward the park’s second biggest attraction: Glacier Grey. En route, the amazing Almirante Nieto peaks were calling us to climb them.

Lucky for us, our EcoCamp guide Paulo was good friends with the boat captain, so he got us VIP access to the control room. After chatting it up in en Español for a while, the captain insisted that Anne take the wheel. With the feel of the strong winds and a glimpse of the upcoming icebergs, Anne quickly handed back the reigns.

The face of Glacier Grey is split in the middle with a large black island (which about a century ago was fully engulfed by the glacier). This view is of the right side– the “daintier” section of the glacier.

The blue hues of the glacier were so intense they looked surreal.

For the sunset sail home, we enjoyed pisco sours and whiskey on the rocks (the “rocks” are icebergs, of course). In the distance you can see the island splitting the glacier in half.

On our return back to the mainland we marveled at these amazing cloud formations hovering around the mountains. Later we realized this was no freak instance…the skies of gusty Torres del Paine never cease to amaze.

Day 3: The time had come, the Torres would be ours! (Well, at least to the base of them. Climbing to their peaks requires about a week, not to mention the 10-15 years of winter climbing experience). A gorgeous, and incredibly windy, morrain (Patagonia vocab word meaning a U-shaped valley shaped by a glacier) led us toward the Torres.

We made it! This photo (as with all of those previous) does a fraction of the justice the Torres deserve. This sight was so magnificent. The vista literally takes your breath away as you stare at the raw cliffs, lakes, snow peaks, and massive boulders.

Back at Ecocamp, we watch the sun go down behind and with a little Chilean red wine toast an unforgettable adventure through Torres del Paine.

Much love from Patagonia,

Mike & Anne
www.HoneyTrek.com

The windswept and glacier-carved Torres del Paine National Park has a softer side with the incredible comforts of EcoCamp

Part of the allure of Patagonia is how difficult it is to navigate.  The most extreme and breathtaking landscape doesn’t come right out and present itself, you have to track it down and wrangle it (with a little help from the experts.) For our trip to Torres del Paine, Chile’s most remote and alluring national park, EcoCamp was just the place to call. Their expert guides and luxurious accommodations turned what seemed like an insurmountable place, into an inviting, indulgent, and invigorating oasis.

The five-star treatment started with a pickup at our hotel all the way in El Calafate, Argentina and shepherded across the Chilean border to Puerto Natales. There we were greeted with another chauffeur who dropped us off at the cutest gourmet cafe to regain our strength and get a taste of the incredible wines and meals to come.

Our drive to EcoCamp kept our jaws to the floor the entire ride. The huge peaks, teal lakes, Guancos (a cuter version of the llama) and condors prompted us to ask for photo stops at what seemed like every mile.  Thank goodness for a patient driver!

EcoCamp is made of geodesic dome structures—inspired by the strong, agile, and natural homes of a 15^th century nomadic Patagonian tribe.  Leaving as little footprint as possible, all amenities are powered by solar and hydro energy and their sophisticated compost system combats nearly all waste created.

Glamping, as they call EcoCamp’s style of lodging, is a cute way of saying—this is the most sophisticated and glamorous version of camp you can ever imagine. Our honeymoon-worthy Suite Dome had a massive canopy bed with the coziest sheets, a fireplace, and chic lighting to set the mood.

Spoiling their honeymooners, the EcoCamp staff left us a huge bouquet of sunflowers, a bottle of champagne on ice, and wrapped presents of local delicacies (the dulce con leche with nuts was my favorite!).

To top it off, our room had the ultimate view: the Torres, the steep rock towers that give the park its name.

Unlike most hotels, EcoCamp is all about camaraderie amongst fellow glampers. Every night cocktail hour happens in the Core Dome, where everyone gathers for Pisco Sours, a bounty of appetizers (scallops, cheese, olives, meats, the works!), and to recount stories from their day exploring the park.

Connected to the cocktail lounge was a grand dining room serving beyond delicious meals, complete with Chilean wine (all included in the price of the stay).  Quinoa gnocci, butternut squash soup, grilled lamb, were just a few of the treats that kept us salivating.

There are infinite adventures to be had in Torres del Paine and your fun, friendly and knowledgeable guide can help make any of them possible. Here is a snapshot of our hike to the Torres but stay tuned for a full dose of the the park’s heart-stopping beauty in Mike’s upcoming blog.

Note: Ecocamp invited us to stay with them. Our accommodations were comped; however, all opinions are our own.

Much love from Patagonia,

Mike & Anne
www.HoneyTrek.com

Boutique Hotel de la Fonte is a quiet escape near the rush of the falls

There is something inherently romantic about waterfalls, but to bring them to honeymoon caliber, it’s got to be the Falls of Iguazu. And after a day swooning over the falls, with spurts of spontaneous giggling and jaw-dropping reactions, Mike and I knew we needed to come home to a hotel equally as romantic. And lucky for us that was Boutique Hotel de la Fonte in Puerto Iguazu, Argentina. Perfectly situated on a quiet street 30 minutes from the falls, a 15 minute walk from the center of town, and five minutes from the magnificent Triple Frontier (the river vista of Brazil, Argentina, and Paraguay), this charming property was the perfect home base for adventure and relaxation.

In keeping with its jungle location, de la Fonte has created lush grounds with a rustic lodge and luxe suites.

The property begs to be explored and enjoyed with unexpected features like this charming pond and footbridge, hammocks dangling from the trees, and garden nooks  for afternoon mate tea.

Though don’t be fooled by the rustic facade, the interiors were pure modern luxury. Within our spacious quarters, complete with patio (top), we had a graphic hand-painted mural framing the comfiest bed and a sleek leather seating area to enjoy our complimentary champagne.

The bathroom had gleaming fixtures, gorgeous tile work, and a tub that said “Soak here!”

For breakfast, we loved that we weren’t cooped up in a stuffy dining room but were told to pick any place in the garden we wanted to dine. We grew very attached to our poolside table and tended to stay for a couple extra cappuccinos. Not only was the food delish and beyond bountiful, the presentation in these custom wooden trays was so chic!

After two days at the roar of the falls, we enjoyed some relaxing water time by the pool.

We loved the teak chaise lounges and the warm and fresh towels ready and waiting.

On our last night before an incredible steak dinner (you will not believe how good the Argentine beef is!), we strolled down the street for a sunset vista of the Triple Frontier (Paraguay left, Brazil right, and Argentina below our feet!)

Of all the places we’ve visited in the incredible six weeks on our honeymoon, Iguazu has been the most magnificent. We would recommend starting at the Brazil side of the falls for a stunning overview of the falls, then two days getting up close and personal with this natural wonder on Argentinian side, followed two more simply enjoying the great grounds of Boutique Hotel de la Fonte. And if you can stretch your honeymoon beyond a week, it’s just an hour flight to the sexy city of Buenos Aires or Southern Brazil’s beautiful beaches.

Note: Boutique Hotel de la Fonte invited us to stay with them. Our room was comped; however, all opinions are our own.

Much love from Iguazu,
Mike & Anne
www.HoneyTrek.com

This Brazilian beach town is as chic as it is relaxing


In our three-week journey down the coast of Brazil we encountered some of the most beautiful beaches I’ve ever seen, but none as chic as Trancoso, Bahia. Accessed by a semi-paved road an hour from the nearest city of Porto Seguro, we bumped along assuming this was going to be a ten-shack town but instead we found the hippest side of paradise.

If a town’s center is meant to represent a place, then Trancoso planned it perfectly with the Quadrado, a wide open field surrounded by charming cafes and colorful casas. Though obscured here, the nighttime twinkle is one of my favorite features.

This Jesuit church was the heart of town in the 16th century and still is. Though I am sure the church square still has its share of devotees, this is now where artisans sell their wares and wild horses tend to congregate.

Trancoso is set on a bluff overlooking a beach filled by a system of rivers and lagoons. The change in tides keep them filling and falling, creating an ever-changing landscape that draws you down the coast. Just be warned, if you stay out too late in the day…you may have to wade part of the way home.

Trancoso is far from flashy but pay attention and you’ll notice the beach is full of little paths leading to luxury hotels.

Just when you think Trancoso is all about the jetset, a guy like this will roll by to keep it real.

This washed up boat was turned into the rustic chic bar, Uxia. Love the sun hat umbrellas.

Trancoso has found the winning formula for a beach-town restaurant: massive tree for shade, big wooden patio chairs for seating, and poppy pattern pillows to draw you in. Cafe Vitoria’s fun floral cushions tempted me curl up here with a book and a caipirinha.

With everyone on the beach all day, the town comes alive at night with art galleries and boutiques like Galleria Fulô and staying open until 10pm or later.

Trancoso is a magical place (If a white wild pony grazing in front of a blue beach cottage didn’t have you convinced.)

Essential Trancoso

Lodging

Relais & Chateaux is one of the most selective hotel groups in the world and there only have one property in the state of Bahia that gets its seal of approval: Estrela d’ Agua. If you want to be directly on the beach this is the spot to be.

Dining

Casa Timbo is one of the chic lantern-lit restaurants under the boughs of the Quadrado but with a better price than its neighbors.

Entertainment

Aue Zum Zum has a great outdoor music scene by night. Snag a table early or just can grab a drink at the adorable pop-up bars and listen in from a bench in the square.

Much love from Trancoso,
Mike & Anne
www.HoneyTrek.com

The beaches just get better and better with every turn in Praia de Pipa
The moment you touch the sand at Praia de Pipa you know you are in a special place, with steep Neapolitan-colored cliffs in both directions, dolphins jumping at Praia dos Golfinos, and the wonderful cobble stone streets cross-hatched on the hillside. If you are considering a romantic getaway to the northeast coast of Brazil, Praia de Pipa is not to be missed.

(Above) As we explored beyond the main beach, we were rewarded with this amazing view down the coast. This is one of dozens of beaches comprising Pipa, each secluded in its own tall cliff cove.

Pipa is an wonderful blend of artisans and honeymooners alike. You can enjoy the local musicians and jewelers about town, or you can spend your days in the spa overlooking the magnificent cliffs and shopping along the cobblestone streets.

The rock formations were amazing all along the coastline, especially when the three colors were so distinct, as seen here at Praia de Amor, with the black lava rock, white sandstone and the red-clay top layer.

A view looking down to Pipa, a short hike from town. Like many of the beaches they can only be accessed during low tide, so get a jump on the day if you plan to explore.

Long arching coves make this region excellent for exploring. This cove is called Praia dos Golfinos, which means beach of the dolphins, and it did not disappoint, we saw numerous Flippers frolicking about.

The waves at Pipa were awesome in the morning at low tide. We rented some boards and got in a few hours. Anne caught her first true wave (not counting the ones she grew up boogie boarding in California). As an added bonus some dolphins came by for a visit during our session.

Here, some local kids getting in one last game of futebol on the sandbar before the sun retires for the day. One of our favorite times each evening is the 30-40 minutes after sunset, the sky is even more beautiful than during sunset and the reflections are magnificent. Plus, you usually have the beach to yourself since most jet the moment the sun crosses the horizon.

Pipa was phenomenal—charming town, amazing food, great nightlife, and a never-ending supply of beaches to explore. If you are looking for a relaxing get-away on the coast of Brazil, make sure Pipa is on your short list.

Much love from Brazil,
Mike & Anne
www.HoneyTrek.com

Taking Off…In Style
Anne & Mike start their honeymoon around the world with a first class liftoff to Brazil!

After years of dreaming (and saving), our HoneyTrek has finally begun! No matter how much planning you do for a trip like this, the week before you put your life on pause for the next  500 days will be madness. Still frantically packing, we didn’t sleep a minute before our flight and just when we were about at our wits end, we made it to the airport to find the ultimate reward: First class seats all the way from snowy New York to sunny Brazil.

Our friends over at Copa Airlines took amazing care of us the entire way, from our ultra fast and smooth check-in, to the plush seats with ridiculous leg room and three-course meals on both legs. The service was excellent, everyone had a smile on their face and the dining experience was top notch  (loved their poached salmon and asparagus!) The little details weren’t overlooked either, from the hot towel before our meal to choosing the toppings on our ice cream sundae, the pampering was just what we needed.

Though it was only 11AM, we were so excited we had to enjoy a glass of champagne on our first leg and toast the fact that our HoneyTrek was officially underway….in style. https://twitter.com/#!/HoneyTrek/status/161082164946022401

We wanted to extend a huge thank you to Copa Airlines and Honeymoons.com for making this upgrade to Manaus,Brazil happen; it has definitely set our honeymoon on the right foot, poised for luxury, relaxation, and as always, adventure.

Much love from Brazil,

Mike & Anne

www.HoneyTrek.com

Introducing Honeymoons.com’s favorite newlyweds and newest bloggers, Anne and Mike Howard. Follow the couple as they take the ultimate honeymoon—a 500 day trip around the world!

At a fateful happy-hour two years ago, friends of ours told us they were taking a honeymoon around the world. Our jaws dropped to the floor then stuttered out, “What do you mean? Is that even possible?” They were just going to quit their jobs and go. The concept seemed unfathomable but yet affixed itself to our brains from that moment on.

Mike and my love for travel runs deep. With a mother who was a flight attendant all through her 20s and Mike’s parents who were known for their spontaneous ski trips to the Alps, we were taught traveling is an essential part of living. In our five years of dating, we’ve been to nine countries and have constantly been thinking, where to explore next? So when it came to picking a place for our honeymoon, we knew one exotic beach wasn’t going to satisfy this case of wanderlust.

So which place did we settle on? The world. As of January 22, 2012, Mike and I are celebrating our marriage with a 500-day honeymoon around the globe and are thrilled to be chronicling our adventure in our new blog on Honeymoons.com.

The Honeymoon Itinerary
The plan is to go the places too far to visit while we have a job and too rugged to do when we’re old (I’m a 29 year-old design editor and Mike is a 34-year old digital media strategist—at least we were, until we quit our jobs last month). This means neighboring Central America and cushy Europe, we’ll see you at a later date. South America, Africa, Asia, Oceania—here we come!

To be honest, our itinerary right now is pretty loose, and we’d like to keep it that way. Of course we’ll be tightening up our plans as we approach each new destination but you never know what you’ll find out there, so we are keeping a little wiggle room for spontaneous inspiration!

Countries we’ll be exploring, in this order:
South America (January-May, 2012)
- Brazil
- Argentina
- Uruguay
- Chile
- Bolivia
- Peru

Africa: (June-August 2012)
- South Africa
- Mozambique
- Zambia
- Tanzania
- Kenya
- Madagascar
- Seychelles

Asia (August 2012-October 2012)
- Nepal
- Tibet
- China
- Japan
- South Korea

Southeast Asia (November 2012-February 2013)
- Philippines
- Laos
- Vietnam
- Cambodia
- Thailand
- Malaysia
- Singapore
- Indonesia

Oceania (March-May 2013)
- Australia
- New Zealand
- Fiji

Honeymooning Adventures
From celebrating Rio de Janeiro´s Carnival, hiking Machu Picchu, sunbathing in the Seychelles Islands, safari in Tanzania, scuba diving Australia´s Great Barrier Reef, we want to experience the most exciting and romantic things each of these 29 countries has to offer. If you are planning a honeymoon or anniversary getaway, we hope our adventures will inspire your once-in-a-lifetime trip. It is going to be one heck of a journey—one which we’d love you to participate in, from observing, commenting, asking questions to offering your suggestions, even requests!

We hope you’ll join us for the ride…
Anne & Mike Howard
www.HoneyTrek.com